Detachable lining for coats



Sept. 27, 1949 E. E. LEVY DETACHABLE LINING FOR COATS 2 Sheets-SheetlFiled Feb. 6, 1946 Sept. 27, 1949.

E. E. LEVY DETACHABLE LINING FOR COATS 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Feb, e,1946 v IN V EN TOR. .Zki'kZTZg 6 W j a lly thrust in putting onthejgarment iance of the lining.

Patented Sept. 27, 1949 ,Application February This. invention relatessport jackets and likearticles oflvieariiigjapparel, and,-,n 1o1'eparticularl'm'to; detachable linings. for .artic1es,; to betteradaptthemto varying weather conditions.

The outer coat or jacket, in which s uch a lining is inserted, is oftenconstructed of fabridof s'ub-' stantialthickness, and is frequentlyitself; made with a stitched-injininghfsilk,satin, rayon .or thelike,for warmth and appearance and to I j Claims.

ETAoHnBLE- :LI 1NGFoRacoATslam-i aged, Nifii. .Bros. & AdlerRochestelyll c. 'a'corporation-oflflew n I in H s 6, 1946, SeriaINoQ645,733 Q a (oil-"2 977)" adapt the coat to-slide on'easily over othergarments. 1 A detachable lining: usually comprises fabric ofl suff cientthicknessfto' afiord the desired thermal insulation and is also madewith an'inner lining oflthe character, indicated above and for .l --Ansr i t is ti 109 4 93:, i n f he character indicated in which,thegbulkofjma terial. under .the, ,arn 1ho1e is, greatly freduced, for

' scribed, the .;.novel; features ,being pointed ,out in similarpurposes, 'Whenf'such-a detachable lining is insertedin the outer,garmenmh various layers of fabric referred to above, 'multipl ied'at theseams, acquire such accumulatedthicknessgunder .the armholes .that theytend .to bunch up, par- ,ticula'rly when the armjis in 'thelowe'redposition usually occupied,'so .as to form a mass ofjfabric vvhichfis notonly uncomfortable, for,,thet' lvvearer,v

but detracts from, the tailored appearance'flof the garment Ithas beenproposed to overcomethisditficulty by stitching the sleeve to the bodyportio'n'of the detachable lining overthe shoulder portion only, and insomecasesat asingle spotunder the arm,

leaving the sleeve free, from the body throughout K a, large proportionof. the armhole. fjThis "coni struction however, hasthe disadtantagesofle'aving openings between the body and sleeve portions into which thehandsof the wearerarefrequentmg injury to the stitching of theiparts.

the ,claims at theend of thespecification. j nln'thedr'awingsz;

, Rig. .1 is a ,froht. eley atiiohal vievv oi topcoat,

opened tddis'pl'a'y' thereina detachablesleeyed I liningembodying thepresent invention; j

lining with a pleated insert at the 'arlmhole seam landnextendingaround. the armhole except I over the Shoulder, to afford, excess,material to permit the raising of the armwith greater freedom fromconstraint by the lining. This construction, however, tends to increasethe quantity, andlbulk of .fabric and seams accumulated underithearmhole,

with the disadvantages reierjredto above, as well as the tendency todetract from. a sightly appear- One'object. of, the invention istoprovide an improved lining of the detachable sleeve type fastened intheputer garment, is riore comfort able tojthe' wearer, and presentsagmore sightly appearan e;

w g. '2 isasirnilar viewof thelining, detached; ig. 3 is a bottom planviewofthe underarm port ens-0f the lining, .w iththe arm-inraisedQpomica; I :1, ,Fg. i is an enlarged section c rtheline'll 2} 1 "Ar ig: 5 enlarged section 'on the line, Sat-jg;

fiw nF -l-a d a. Eig, 7 5 is a; further enlarge ment of port ns Gris anenlarged section substantially The invention-is herein disclosed,bywayflof .i'llustration asapplied tov'a detachable. sleeved "lining:for a;;topcoat I ll. pi -usual; constnuction, shaving :a body :portion lI -and---:permanently 'is'titched-in sleeves l i .zEach. frontportionof;the cbat; gas -l 3, :has a 'facing of .th,esame material.stitchedfto':the body at M, so asito leave 1a -fr,ee flap l5 Stitchedunden andeconcealed bye-the flap is a tape It; adapted :to:'ca'rryr-zippenwbutton; -snap 'fa'stener, or like means fOIl securingthe detachable liriing in the outergarment. 1 Such means, inthepresent'instaricegaare snap fasteners': lL-of known type, for cooperation :withcorresponding parts on the "lining; While the outer garment i is hereshown as' a coat of box type,

;, it-any; ofcou'r se l have 'a 'raglan or other suitable oonstructienl'ffIhe detachable lining 1 s' is" shown fittedj in the ,ouiter armentinEig. 1" and detached 1 in Fig; 2,

{be varied "as desired. The-lining consists" of being, the,presentfinstance, oif'raglan type and extending for the full lengthof:the outer garment .as shown; although such features 9 ay tc edinsleeves; ti es body portion' a w g g. providedvvith complementary se imta mans for d a' h l s urto position.

ing the lining in the outer garment or coat.

The detachable lining comprises an outer fabric part 20, preferably ofsubstantial thickness and warmth, and has stitched therein an innerlining 2| in the form of a yoke, as shown, although it will beunderstood, of course, that such inner lining may be of full length. Thebody portion of the detachable lining comprises the usual front and backportions, 22 and 23, which,

with their respective inner lining portions H, The

are stitched together as by seams 24. sleeves are each made in thepresent case of front and back sections, 25 and 26 (Fig. 3), eachsection comprising its outer fabric and inner lining portions, withthese sleeve sections stitched together by the usual seams, as 21, thecomplete sleeve being stitched to the body portions by the usual seamsincluding a seam 28 extending around under the armhole.

To increase the warmth and moistureresistance of the detachable lining,its several portions are preferably made to include one or more plies 29of known insulating material such as cotton or wool, kapok, or otherfibrous materials, or I may employ for this purpose a stratum of corksuch as disclosed in my Letters Patent No. 2,231,129. The front portionsof the body are preferably provided with a single ply of such insulatingmaterial 29, as indicated in Fig. 4. I prefer to provide the sleeveswith two such insulating plies 29 (Fig. '7), and the back portions ofthe body with three such insulating plies, as shown in Fig. 5, althoughit will-be, understoodof course, that the number of such insulatingplies in the different portions of the lining may b varied as desired.

A detachable lining of the effectively insulated and warm natureindicated. above with its multiple plies of material, is characterizedby substantial thickness, especially in the multiplication of the pliesand at the seams between the different portions and at the intersectionsof the seams. The resulting bulk and stiffness is intensified by thebunching of the materials and seamsin the under-arm portions at thearmholes, so as to become uncomfortable to the wearer and interrupt thesmooth and tailored appearance of the garment. I have found that thisdifliculty may be effectively overcome by cutting away the fabric plies,including their seams, over a substantial area of, such under-armportions and replacing them by one or more plies of a light, thinmaterial stitched to the remote edges of the 'cut away portions, so asto eliminate any thickness of materials under the arms, whilemaintaining, however, a continuously closed, smooth and warmconstruction.

To this end, I preferably cut away under each arm a substantiallydiamond-shaped area 30 (Fig 3), arranged with its projecting corners, or

points, extending along the several seams 24, 21

and 28, so as to remove these seams for such substantial lengths thereofas may be found desirable, depending upon the construction of thegarment and the degree of bulkiness to be overcome. The cut away area oropening thus formed is replaced by an insert 3| of correspondinglydiamond shape comprising, in the present instance, two plies 32 and 33(Figs. 6 and 7), of thin, flexible material, such as silk, satin, rayonor the like, adapted to slide easily in contact with other fabrics andsmoothly adjust itself The outer ply 32 is preferably stitched,as at 34,to the cut away edges of outer fabric part or ply 20 of the bodyportions and, at 35, to the edges of the outer fabric portion or ply 20of the sleeve sections. The inner ply 33 of the insert is stitched, asat 36, to the edges of the inner lining 2| and insulating ply or pliesof the body portion, and, at 31, to the edges of the inner lining andinsulating plies 2| and 29 of the sleeve portions, respectively. The cutaway area 30 and the insert 3| for closing it may evidently be varied insize and shape, as particular applications may require, so as tosubstantially remove the accumulated bulkiness of fabric layers andseams under the armhole and the tendency of such portions to bunch upand interfere with the comfort of the wearer and the movement of thearms, as well as the s-ightly appearance of the garment.

It will thus be seen that the invention accomplishes its objects andwhile it has been herein disclosed by reference to the details of apreferred embodiment, it is to be understood that such disclosure isintended in an illustrative, rather than a limiting sense, as it iscontemplated that various modifications in the constructionandarrangement of the parts will readily'occur to those skilled in theart, within the spirit of the invention and the scope of the appendedclaims.

I claim:

. 1. A detachable lining for a coat, provided with means for detachablyassociating the same with said coat and comprising a body portion havingfront portions and a back portion connected by seams extending to thearmholes of said coat lining, sleeves having front and back sectionsconnected by seams extending to said armholes, said body portions andsleeves each having an outer fabric ply and at least one innerlining'ply of insulating material affording a lining of thick and warmlyinsulated construction, said body portions and sleeves and lining pliesbeing secured together by armhole seams and having the under-armportions thereof and the included portions of said seams cut away ateach armhole over a substantially diamond-shaped area extending at itspoints for substantial distances in line with the seams between saidbody portions and the sleeve seams and said armhole seams, and an insertof thin flexible imperforate material having its edges stitched to theedges of said body portions and sleeve sections at said cut awayportions, to replace said cut away portions and the included portions ofsaid seams and reduce the thickness and bulk of material at saidunderarm portions.

2. A detachable lining for a coat, provided with means for detachablyassociating the same with said coat and comprising a body portion havingfront portions and a back portion connected by seams extending to thearmholes of said coat lining, sleeves having front and back sectionsconnected by seamsextending to the armholes, said body portions andsleeves each having an outer fabric ply and at least one inner liningply of insulating material affording a lining of thick and warmlyinsulated construction, said body portions and sleeves and lining pliesbeing seseams and said armhole seams, and an insert composed-of separateinner and outer plies of thin, flexible, imperforate material, the inner.of

said insertplies having its edges stitched to the edges of the liningplies of said body portions 5 and sleeve sections and the outer of saidinsert plies having its edges stitched to the edges of the fabric pliesof said body portions and sleeve sections at said cut away portions,respectively, to replace said cut away portions and the includedportions .of said seams and reduce the thickness and bulk of material atsaid under-arm lportions.

EARLE E. LEVY.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

Number Number n UK UNITED STATES PATENTS Name Date Sacks Aug. 15, 1922Lee Mar. 16, 1943 Reiter June 1, 1943 FOREIGN PATENTS Country Date-Great Britain Feb. 22, 1917

